Building a Wormery

Your worms don’t need to be in a box, but it can make it easier to maintain them in a herd. The very best components are wood or plastic. Metal gives off poisons the way it acts with all the water and also acids in the bed. The bin should be at the very least 8 to ten inches deep,and preferably twelve to sixteen inches, and also should always be wider than it is deep. A great operating measurement is two feet by three ft by 1 ft . deep. Drain slots are necessary at the bottom to be able to make sure that your bedding does not end up soaked with liquid. Additionally they help increase ventilation through the bedding. Should you be utilizing a plastic tub, drill a 1/4 inch hole every three inches. You will not require any screen to keep the earthworms in. If there’s something amiss with the bedding, they are going to discover a different exit, and even get through the screening if they need to. Set something underneath each corner of the container so air gets into the bottom.If you bought a retail wormery please don’t use the top that will come with it simply because it restricts fresh air circulation. Instead, protect the bedding using a piece of burlap or cardboard. If you are working with cardboard, trim it so there is a half inch space all the way around for air to get in.Or,an even better option is to stretch a bit of burlap around a wooden frame, and place it on top of the bin. You are able to go one step more, and always keep the burlap damp by sprinkling water onto it. The earthworms definitely will enjoy the humid surroundings while they crawl around on top of the food during the night time.

Even though plastic-type tubs can work, and so are commonly used, worms like wood better. Just one particular advantage of real wood is the fact that it lets air pass. As water wicks through the lumber, air is attracted in to the bedding. Either drill a quarter inch hole every three inches or so in the base, or drill a one inch perforation for every square foot. Should you opt for 1-inch openings, fasten a small piece of plastic (not metal) window screen about any opening.

The bin pictured is made with 2″x12″ sides and a 3/4″ plywood bottom.If budget is a concern, this same bin can be built even more cheaply by using one half inch plywood for both the sides and the bottom and will last two to three years before needing to be replaced You may be able to save even more by using 1/2 inch OSB (Oriented Strand Board) instead of plywood. To correctly fasten the bottom piece to the sides you should be using either 2X2 or 2X4 boards The strongest assembly would be to attach the 2X2 or 2X4 to the underside of the side pieces with the floor of the bin in between using screws instead of nails. 2x4s work good for the legs. Choose screws that are made for outdoor use and will not corrode

For best results, it is important to have a bit of compost in the first bedding. This cannot be stressed enough. If you have aged manure, that will work perfectly Soak the peat moss or coconut bedding fiber completely and then squeezeout the water to reduce the acidity of the materials The bedding should be almost soggy. A couple of drops of water ought to come out when squeezed. If you are ordering your new herd online, be certain that their new home is ready before they get there.. While the vendor will take all precautions, there isn’t anyway to know how much longer they will live in their packaging. As soon as you get your new worms, put both them, and their packaging, in the center of the wormery. After the worms crawl in, spread out the stack of bedding, and nourish the tiny fellows immediately.